Learn How to Use a Black & Decker Drill Correctly & Safely

To use a Black & Decker drill, you match three controls: the forward/reverse button, the variable-speed trigger, and the torque adjustment collar. Insert a bit into the keyless chuck by hand-tightening it clockwise. The 20V MAX* label means a 20-volt peak; under load, the nominal voltage is 18 volts. Pull the trigger to start; push the forward/reverse button left for driving screws, right for removing them.

That 18-volt detail isn’t a marketing trick. It’s the actual working voltage printed in the manual for models like the BCD702. Knowing it explains why your drill bogs down in dense wood, you’re asking for more torque than the battery’s sustained output can deliver.

What follows is a breakdown of every switch, collar, and warning on a typical Black & Decker drill. We’ll cover what each part does, the mistakes that break them, and the right sequence for drilling versus driving. By the end, you’ll know why a stall twists the tool out of your hands and how to prevent it.

Key Takeaways

• The forward/reverse button also acts as a lock-off. Always check its position before pulling the trigger.
• Hand-tighten the keyless chuck only. Using pliers or channel locks strips the plastic gears inside the chuck within a dozen uses.
• A drill stall creates a sudden, powerful twist. Grip with both hands and release the trigger immediately, do not click it on and off.
• Store batteries in a cool, dry place. Leaving a Black & Decker battery in a hot shed (over 104°F/40°C) permanently reduces its capacity.
• Use the torque collar’s drill setting for drilling holes. Any numbered setting is for driving screws and will disengage the clutch.

The Forward/Reverse Switch and Trigger Control

Your index finger does the work here. The variable-speed trigger and the forward/reverse button right above it are your primary controls.

Before you start: A stalled drill can twist violently. Always grip the drill firmly with both hands, expect the stall, and release the trigger immediately if it happens. Do not click the trigger off and on to restart a stalled drill, this can damage the motor.

The forward/reverse button has three positions: left, middle, and right. Pushed to the left, the chuck spins clockwise for driving screws and drilling. Pushed to the right, it spins counterclockwise for removing screws. The middle position locks the trigger, this is the lock-off button. Get in the habit of checking this switch is in the middle before storing the drill or changing a bit.

The trigger is variable speed. A light pull gives a slow spin; a full pull gives full speed. For starting a drill bit, use a light pull. This prevents the bit from skating across the material. For driving a screw, start slow to seat the screw, then increase speed. The built-in LED work light on models like the BDCDD220C activates with the trigger, illuminating your work area.

The Keyless Chuck

This is the three-jaw clamp at the front of the drill that holds your bits. “Keyless” means you tighten it by hand.

Open the chuck by rotating the front sleeve counterclockwise. Insert your drill bit or screwdriver bit until the shank is seated fully in the jaws. Then, while holding the rear sleeve of the chuck stationary, rotate the front sleeve clockwise until it is hand-tight. Do not use tools. The plastic gear train inside a keyless chuck isn’t built for wrench torque. Forcing it strips the gears, and the chuck will spin freely without gripping the bit.

A bit that wobbles or slips is either not inserted fully or the chuck is worn. If the chuck is worn, the fix is a replacement chuck, not more force. For most driving screws tasks, a standard hex-shank bit is all you need.

The Torque Adjustment Collar

This numbered ring behind the chuck is the clutch. It separates a drill from a screwdriver. Its job is to disengage the drive when a set resistance is met, preventing you from over-driving and stripping screws or damaging materials.

The collar has numbers (often 1-10 or 1-15) and a drill bit icon. For drilling into any material, the collar must be set to the drill icon. This bypasses the clutch and delivers full, continuous torque to the bit. If you try to drill with the collar on a number, the clutch will disengage as soon as the bit meets resistance, and you’ll get nowhere.

For using a drill as a screwdriver, start with a low number (like 3) for soft materials like drywall. If the clutch disengages before the screw is flush, move to a higher number. The correct setting is the lowest number that drives the screw to your desired depth. This is the core of basic drill operation.

Collar Setting	Use Case	What Happens If Wrong
Drill Icon	Drilling holes in wood, metal, masonry.	Setting to a number causes clutch to slip; drill bit won’t penetrate.
Low Number (1-5)	Driving small screws into soft materials (drywall, soft pine).	Screw head strips or material is damaged from too much torque.
High Number (6-10+)	Driving large screws into hard materials (hardwood, decking).	Screw snaps or driver bit cam-outs under insufficient torque.

Dual-Range Gearing

Some Black & Decker drills, like the BDCDD220C, have a gear shift button. This selects between high speed/low torque (Gear 2) and low speed/high torque (Gear 1).

You must be stopped to change gears. Slide the button toward the chuck for Gear 2 (high speed). Slide it away from the chuck for Gear 1 (low speed). If the button won’t slide, rock the chuck slightly by hand to align the internal gears.

Gear 2 is for small-diameter drilling (under 1/4″) and driving screws where you want speed. Gear 1 is for large-diameter holes, driving lag bolts, or any application where the drill is laboring. If the drill is bogging down and the battery is charged, you’re likely in the wrong gear. This is a key difference when understanding the drill vs impact driver choice, an impact driver excels in high-torque, low-speed scenarios.

Battery and Charging Specifics

Black & Decker’s 20V MAX* system is common. The asterisk matters. Per the BCD702 manual, “Maximum initial battery pack voltage (measured without a workload) is 20 volts. Measured under a workload, nominal voltage is 18.” You have a peak of 20V, but it operates at 18V.

Common mistake: Charging a cold battery. The BDCS20 manual states batteries should never be charged in air below 40°F (4.5°C). The chemical reaction is inhibited, leading to a false “full” charge and immediate depletion.

For long-term health, charge your drill battery at room temperature. Store it in a cool, dry place away from the charger. The BCD702 manual warns not to store the tool where temperatures exceed 104°F (40°C), like a summer shed. Heat is the fastest killer of lithium-ion cells.

If your drill is weak, check the battery charge first. Then check the gear setting. Then check your drill bit selection. A dull bit demands more power than a sharp one.

Drilling vs. Driving: The Practical Sequence

The mental shift between making a hole and setting a fastener is where most new users fumble. The drill has different settings for each job.

For Drilling a Hole:

1. Set the torque collar to the drill icon.
2. Select the correct gear (Gear 2 for small bits, Gear 1 for bits over 1/4″).
3. Insert a sharp drill bit and hand-tighten the chuck.
4. Mark your hole. Hold the drill perpendicular to the work surface.
5. Start with a light trigger pull to create a pilot dent, then increase speed while applying steady, straight pressure.

For Driving a Screw:

1. Set the torque collar to a low number (start with 3).
2. Select Gear 2 for speed.
3. Insert the correct driver bit and hand-tighten.
4. Start the screw slowly with light pressure to prevent cam-out.
5. If the clutch disengages too soon, increase the torque setting one notch and try again.

If you need to drill a pilot hole and then drive a screw, you must change the torque collar setting between steps. Forgetting to switch back from “drill” to a numbered setting is how you drive a screw straight through a piece of trim.

Safety and Maintenance Non-Negotiables

Power tools demand respect. The manuals list specific, certified safety gear for a reason.

Wear ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses every single time. Everyday prescription glasses are not impact-rated. When sanding, cutting, or drilling masonry, use a NIOSH-approved respirator. Dust from materials like brick contains crystalline silica, a known carcinogen.

Where this goes sideways: Forcing a drill. If the bit isn’t progressing, you’re either in the wrong gear, using a dull bit, or hitting something hard like a nail or conduit. Forcing it overheats the motor and can cause a violent stall. Stop and diagnose.

After use, wipe the drill down with a dry cloth. Never immerse it or spray it with cleaner. Periodically open the chuck fully and blow out dust with compressed air. For electrical or mechanical repairs, send it to a Black & Decker service center. Using non-approved parts or opening the tool voids the two-year home-use warranty.

Your cordless drill is a versatile tool. But its versatility depends on you matching its settings to the task. A drill set wrong is just a noisy paperweight.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does the 20V MAX* mean on my Black & Decker drill?

It indicates the maximum initial voltage of the battery when not under load. When the drill is working, the nominal voltage is 18 volts. This is standard for the 20V MAX* system and is detailed in the product manuals. It’s not a downgrade; it’s an honest specification of working voltage.

Why does my drill bit keep falling out of the chuck?

The chuck is not tight enough, or its internal gears are stripped. Ensure you are hand-tightening the chuck firmly by rotating the front sleeve clockwise while holding the rear sleeve. If it still slips, the chuck is likely damaged from overtightening with tools and needs replacement.

My drill stops suddenly with a clunk and twists. What happened?

The drill stalled. This occurs when the load (like a thick board or a dull bit) exceeds the motor’s torque. Always expect this possibility. The correct response is to release the trigger immediately, keeping a firm two-handed grip. Do not repeatedly pull the trigger to power through it, as this can damage the motor.

Should I use my drill in the rain or wet conditions?

No. The BCD702 manual explicitly states the drill is not designed for wet conditions or presence of flammable liquids or gases. Moisture can cause a short circuit, electric shock, or damage the internal electronics. For outdoor use in damp conditions, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet is the minimum required protection.

What’s the difference between my drill and an impact driver?

Drill applies constant rotational force and is designed for drilling holes and precision screw driving. An impact driver delivers rapid, concussive rotational blows (impacts) in addition to rotation, making it superior for driving large screws and bolts without straining your wrist. For most screw driving, a drill’s clutch is sufficient. For decks, framing, or lug nuts, you need the impact driver.

The Bottom Line

Using a Black & Decker drill isn’t about strength. It’s about matching three settings: direction, torque, and speed. Get the sequence wrong, and you’ll fight the tool. Get it right, and the work feels effortless.

Start every job by checking the forward/reverse switch. Hand-tighten bits only. Use the drill setting for holes, the numbered clutch for screws. When the drill stalls, and it will, let go of the trigger and figure out why. That’s the manual’s best advice, and it’s the only way the drill lasts for the long haul. For heavier fastening, that’s when you graduate to an impact driver. For everything else, this drill, set correctly, is enough.